924/944/968 Frequently Asked Questions
944 Clutch Replacement Procedure
The following note was created by
Michael Kehr. It
has since been slightly edited to update tool sources, etc. Prices are all in USD. Prices
and part numbers were correct in '94 but many are likely to have changed in the interim.
The purpose of this procedure is to supply basic but complete
information for clutch replacement on a '86 951, with one- or two-piece crosspipe.
At the time this was written, I had just recently finished a complete clutch job on my '86 951,
which included replacing the throwout bearing, pressure plate, clutch disc, pilot
bearing, guide sleeve, and the two needle bearings on the release lever.
I am posting my experiences so I may help others who are mechanically
inclined but cannot afford the $1,400.00 plus labor to do the job.
This procedure applies to all 944-series cars, with some exceptions.
Porsche sets the shop time at
23 hours (single-piece cross-pipe) @ $55.00 =
~ Approximate labor rate
16 hours (two-piece cross-pipe) @ $55.00 =
I completed the entire job in two weeks working part time, which included replacing
the right motor mount, cleaning the underbody and transmission,
undercoating, and eliminating all corrosion. Some steps will be frustrating if
you have never done this kind of work on this type of car.
Take your time, keep
organized, and most important have patience - you'll need it!
I would like to thank fellow list member Mark Sundt for all his help and support
throughout this job.
His patience and insight are greatly appreciated. Also I
would like to thank Milo Dorr, Steve Timmons, Kevin Gross, Jim Selders and
Without the help of these people I would never have been able to
do this job.
Thanks also to Stan Hanks and his informative Archives.
The job should not be undertaken by those without some mechanical ability. It is
not an extremely difficult job, but requires many steps especially if your car
still has the single part cross pipe. Organization is important!
Safety is also very important, when working under a car supported
by jack stands. Take time and care when raising the car with the hydraulic jack,
utilizing the proper jack points. A good idea would be a secondary means of
support, such as concrete blocks under the wheels.
I am going to explain this procedure in detail in hopes that I
can help other list members do this job. Reviewing and researching before you
start is a good way to familarize yourself with the car, and will make you more
confident, resulting in a sucessful job. The clutch replacement on my 951 was
the second time I have ever worked on a car, other than basic maintenance,
the first being the replacement of the front struts and strut bearings.
I will also list the tools needed and where to find them. Part numbers will be given,
along with chemicals needed, research material sources and torque specs. I will
refer to the Haynes 944 manual, the 944 Factory Workshop Manuals (6 volumes) including
the Turbo supplement and Mark Sundt's notes, used with his permission. I have
also included "Hints and Notes" sections to point out important areas.
I tried to make this information as accurate as possible. If there are other
suggestions or hints that will make this account more complete feel free to add
your comments to the list.
Having the proper tools when working on a Porsche is very important.
Using good quality tools is also very important - I have found out the hard way!
I was frustrated more times then I can remember while doing this job.
Now after the job is complete I know what tools I should
have used, and now you will know before you start.
Of course not all tools
listed are mandatory, but the ones listed below will make life easier.
I have found that most Sears Craftsman tools are very poor in quality. The sockets and
wrenches work ok, but the ratchets and mechanical tools are sub-standard in
quality. I speak about the "newer" tools; I know that the older product is much
better. Hazet and Heyco are the German tools used to assemble German cars,
they are very good and are made to fit in some of those tight places. Snap-On,
Mac, Matco, S&K/Facom are good tools, especially Snap-On (great quality and big
bucks). There are very few special tools required to do this job. A
somewhat complete list of tools and the resources for them will follow.
- 1/4" straight
- 1/4" flex head
- 3/8" straight
- 3/8" flex head (long handle) for clutch housing bolts (I used Craftsman)
- 1/2" straight
- breaker bar (for that real stubborn rusted hardware)
- 1/4" long, medium, and short - aprox. 3", 6", 12", 18"
- 3/8" long medium short
- 1/4" flexible (Snap-On)
- 3/8" flexible (Snap-On)
- 1/4" set with 13mm, 15mm semi-deep
- 1/4" universal sockets: 10mm, 13mm, 15mm
- 1/4" magnetic: 10mm, 13mm
- 3/8" set with 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm semi-deep
- 3/8" universal sockets: 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm
- 1/2" set with 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm
- 1/4" drive to 3/8"
- 3/8" drive to 1/2"
- 1/2" drive to 3/8"
- Combination standard length: 8mm, 10mm, 13mm, 14mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm
- Box long: 8mm, 10mm, 13/15mm, 17/19mm
- Flare Nut crowsfoot: 13mm, 15mm
- Torque wrench, flex head 3/8" drive, 5 - 75 ft. lbs.
- 3/8" hex 6mm, 8mm,10mm,12mm. Avoid the Craftsman, bits come out of sockets because they are held
in poorly. Get the kind that are held in with
a pin or set screw, e.g., Hazet
- 3/8" triple-square (XZN) 12-point 8mm, for the
cheesehead bolts that hold on the clutch pressure plate
and CV joint bolts. Don't skimp on
this tool! Buy either the Hazet/Heyco or Snap-On. At $18.00, it is well
worth it! Snap-On calls this tool "triple square."
The flywheel is secured with 12 mm. cheesehead XZN bolts.
- Clutch alignment tool (see below for source), cost roughly $5.95
- M8 x 150 mm bolt - for removing release lever shaft and pilot bearing.
- Vice grips, 10".
- Hammer - not so special.
- Magnetic pick-up - for that hardware you thought you would never see again.
- Rubber mallet - may be needed for intake manifold removal.
- Safety glasses or goggles.
- Various screwdrivers - straight blade, philips #1, #2
- Jackstands - 3 ton, four of them, heavyduty, 12" minimum, 17" maximum height (approximately).
- Hydraulic jack - two-ton at least, minimum height 5" inches, lift 18" at least.
- Blocks of wood and short 2 x 4's
- Odd socket sizes & wrenches - 10mm, 13mm, 15mm, 17mm, 19mm - are used 95% of the time.
I don't think I ever used any even sizes, except 12 mm on exhaust nuts.
- Flex-head ratchets are very useful, don't overlook these tools.
- Universals and flex sockets for those weird angles
- 12-point (vs. six-point) sockets and fine-tooth ratchets are a great help in
- Magnetic 1/4" socket, 10 mm and 13 mm, is very handy along with a
flexible extension and or universal when working in the tight engine
- I accomplished the work with much less, but this is
what I recommend after completing the job. That is if you can afford to
- Baum Tools - distributor for Stahlwille, Hazet, Kukko, +1 800 848 6657
- Zelenda Tool - distributor for Hazet, Heyco, Kukko, and VW/Audi special tools, +1 718 896 2288
- Snap-On Direct - +1 877 762 7664
- Matco Direct - +1 866 289 8665,
- Mac Direct - +1 877 622 8665
- S&K / Facom Direct - +1 800 822 5575
- Griots Garage - distributes Facom tools, jack stands, +1 800 345 5789
- Performance Products/Automotion - clutch alignment tool source, misc. tools, +1 800 777 8881
- Northern Tool - hydraulic jacks, jack stands - +1 800 221 0516
- Harbor Freight Tools - S&K tools, Hydraulic jacks, jack stands +1 800 423 2567 / +1 805 388 3000
Chemicals and Lubricants
- High-pressure grease MoS2, e.g., Porsche p/n 000-043-024-00.
- Penetrating spray, e.g., Wurth's Rost Off or PB
- Anti-seize compound, e.g., Wurth CU-800 or CU-1100
- Spray lubricant, e.g., Wurth HHS-K.
- Low-strength thread locker, e.g., Loctite 242 - for the M8 x 25 mm. ground stud on the clutch bellhousing.
- Bushing/Bearing fixing agent, optional, e.g., Wurth's Green bearing lock.
- Gasket remover, e.g., Wurth's p/n 885791000.
Chemical and Lubricant Suppliers
- Porsche Classic Genuine Parts Catalog
- Haynes 944 Manual, number 1027. Pep Boys sells these, good reference for $15.00.
Chapter 7 "Manual Transaxle," pp. 126-129, chapter 8 "Clutch and Drivetrain," pp. 134-140
- Porsche 944 Workshop Manual, p/n WKD-481-821, vol.#2 Transmission:
30-05/30-09: Torque specs, 30-5/30-17: Clutch, 34-1/34-5: Transmission
- Porsche 944 Turbo Supplement: 30-1/30-7, 30-05/30-09: Clutch, 21-6, 24-4: Intake Manifold
- Porschephiles archives: Dec 91, Mar.92 April, May 94
- Factory workshop manual: Sunset PorscheParts.com, +1 888 502 5927
- Haynes manual: local Pep Boys or mail order, $15.00
A Note on Reference Material
I would at least purchase the Haynes service manual. I would suggest having access to a
friend's set of workshop manuals and parts fiche, if possible. Though you may not
need much after you use these notes.
||intake manifold gasket
||fuel injector seal kit
||seal ring - large
||seal ring - medium
||seal ring - small
- I replaced all of these parts because of the labor involved to access them.
- Replace any hardware that becomes damaged upon removal.
- Must replace exhaust sealing rings & gaskets if disassembled.
- If intake manifold removed.
- Stoddards, 1 800 342-1414, Excellent stock/excellent service
- Don McGill Porsche, Clutch Parts (EuroSelect) @
$495.00 (6/94), (800) 237-1698
I purchased the EuroSelect clutch parts, which are a Sachs Product. The
clutch disc had the six smaller springs in the center with the four
larger on the outside. The Porsche part is identical. The only difference I
could tell is that the Porsche part carries a two-year warranty while the
EuroSelect is one year. The Porsche part is almost double the price. Check out
Excellence magazine for current prices & other vendors.
First it needs to be determined if you have a single- or two-part cross-over pipe.
The diagram is in the factory workshop manual Turbo supplement, pg. 30-3.
All '86 951's originally had the single part cross-pipe. Under warranty PCNA
replaced the non-bellowed type headers, when they cracked, with the improved
"accordian" style. This was done for the first 5 years or 50K miles. The one-pa`rt cross
pipe was updated to the current two-part type under "hidden" warranty with the
The old style did not have a seperate pipe going up to the wastegate. The clutch
bellhousing cannot be removed without this piece removed! Believe me I tried.
So if you have the single cross pipe, it must be completely removed all the way
up to the turbocharger. This involves removing the intake manifold, and lots
more stuff in the engine compartment, in order to access the turbo exhaust
This creates a lot more work! Let's hope you have the new two-part cross-pipe!
Jack up the front end of the car and support with jackstands.
Remove aluminium engine protection shield (bellypan / undertray).
Determine which crosspipe you have (explanation above).
This may be a good time to determine if you would like to replace
the headers and crosspipe with the new updated parts. It's not
cheap! I elected not to do it at this time. I hope the headers
If you have the single-part pipe, lower the car and
proceed with the following steps. If you have the two part cross-pipe, jump up
and down and skip these steps.
As parts are removed, label and store them in
plastic parts bags. Be organized!
Be careful when removing and installing hardware in
and around engine compartment. There are many "black holes" where nuts and
misc. items just disappear. I used a shop rag just under the working area to
catch falling objects. A telescoping magnetic pick-up tool works great for
- Place covers over fenders.
- Disconnect battery by removing ground cable
from the battery.
Cruise Control Cable
If your car is equipped with the cruise control option:
- Disconnect cable on cruise control motor.
- Remove retaining clip on cable.
- Loosen and slide cable housing locking nut toward motor.
- Pull end of cable housing through hole, slide cable through split in cable housing mount.
- Remove cruise control cable clamp, on manifold.
Fuel Rail and Injectors
- Pull off vacuum hoses on pressure regulator and pressure
damper. Inspect at same time; replace if damaged.
- Remove fuel rail. Be careful of plastic pintel caps at the end of each injector.
- Remove distributor cap with spark plug wires (I left the cap on
and just removed the spark plug ends wires only).
- Disconnect fuel connections to fuel rail. There are
two: one for supply, one for return. One line is secured by a hose clamp,
the other is fitting. Try to catch fuel that leaks out of the system. I
covered the open line ends with plastic bags and wrapped with electrical
Be careful with fumes from fuel. Work in a
well-ventilated area, and not around gas pilot lights, eg, from a furnace!
- Fuel Injectors: carefully remove fuel rail from
injectors starting at one end. More fuel will spill out of rail. Next remove
injectors one at a time from the intake manifold Set aside.
- Remove the hose clamps on many intercooler connections.
- Remove black aluminium intercooler tubes.
- Disconnect electrical connection to throttle body.
- Remove the throttle and cruise control cables with the clamp on intake manifold.
- Remove the vacuum tube at throttle body (underneath).
- Remove the M8 bolt at the front of the manifold.
- Remove the M6 bolt at the dipstick.
- Remove the dipstick guide tube.
- Remove the two M6 allen bolts at the oil filter.
- Remove the M6 allen bolt and electrical harness at the back of the manifold.
- If the intake manifold will not come loose, tap it carefully with rubber mallet to free
manifold from the gaskets. Cover intake ports. Turn manifold over so turbo-
charger is visible.
- Remove the shield for master cylinder: two M6 bolts
bolts, three nuts. It is difficult to remove, has sharp edges, but will bend
to facilitate removal. Good luck! It is easier to access the bottom two nuts
when car is lifted.
- Remove starter and slave cyclinder exhaust shields.
- Wastegate to exhaust clamp.
- Disconnect the oxygen sensor.
- Remove the emission check tube. Its top bracket is attached with
upper clutch bellhousing bolt.
- Loosen (but do not remove) wastegate bracket
to torque tube (mark postion)
Soak all bolts on exhaust system with Wurth Rost
Off or equivalent prior to removal. A must for frozen hardware!
Remove the bolts at wastegate (4 nuts and washers on studs, 4 bolts and washers on the
- Remove bolts, washers, nuts at both exhaust manifolds (6).
- Remove bolts, nuts, washers at the turbocharger (4).
The top front is difficult to access; use a 15 mm. crowfoot with a
- Remove the cross-pipe.
Always label wires and connections as to where they go.
- Remove starter: two electrical connections.
Replace its black rubber protective boot if damaged.
- Remove wastegate with holder
(bypass valve) from central tube - two bolts. Disconnect the hose clamp; inspect
vacuum hose for damage.
- Remove starter harness clamp at lower attachment
point. Replace it if it's missing - mine was.
- Remove clamp for hose to clutch slave cylinder,
being careful not to damage hydraulic clutch line.
- Remove exhaust clamp at side
of catalytic converter and remove the short wastegate pipe - probably not
necessary, but I did this.
- Remove nuts, washers (4) at turbo exhaust pipe.
- Remove bolts, nuts, washers (6) on the three exhaust hangers, hold level and
lower down. Be carefull not to damage threaded studs on turbo exhaust pipe.
Withdraw entire exhaust system to rear.
- Remove catalytic and rear muffler
- Leave exhaust hangers on rubber mounts.
- Remove the shift lever boot.
The leather boot is stretched over a plastic frame at the bottom,
which presses into the center console.
It is attached to the top of the lever with a retaining clip.
Be careful of plastic cosmetic items; remove the ashtray, two screws,
lift center piece slightly and
push out leather boot and its frame from bottom.
- Block (wedge) clutch pedal down. You need
to do this to disengage the clutch so that you can turn the drive-shaft by hand
at the transmission, thus postioning its clamping sleeve for removal.
A short piece of lumber can be wedged between the pedal and the front edge of
the driver's seat to accomplish this.
- Remove large protective cover (rubber trapezoidal plug) on the transmission
bellhousing, exposing clamping sleeve.
- Turn the driveshaft by hand by reaching into where the cover was. Turn it to
expose first one, then the other allen-head bolt in the clamping sleeve.
Loosen the clamping sleeve by completely removing the two allen bolts: 8 mm allen with
- Mark position of clamping sleeve, slide toward transmission. Tap lightly
- Unblock the clutch pedal.
- Drain transmission fluid. This is a good time for
this, but not is not necessary in replacing the clutch.
- Clean the area around where drive axles connect to
transmission. This will prevent contamination of the CV joint grease with dirt
- Disconnect driveshaft axles from transmission and suspend them level with wire from shocks,
e.g., using coat hanger wire.
- Cover drive axle ends (CV joints) and transmission flanges with small plastic bags and
close. Try to keep all CV joint grease intact and clean.
- Remove back-up light connection (two wires with push-on connectors) color coded,
terminals not keyed.
- Remove the speedometer electrical cable, being careful with the connector when disconecting.
- Remove the speedometer plastic sender's housing (threaded) and set aside,
cover hole on transmission. A 24 mm. wrench on the base of the black plastic
housing will unthread it from the aluminum boss (which is in turn threaded into
the transmission case).
- Push back the tubular black plastic dust cover on shift rod at its end.
- Cut the safety wire wire and remove the M8 shift-rod bolt on selector
linkage (13 mm socket). The bolt is usually installed with blue Loctite and so
may feel slightly resistant to turning.
- Remove the circlip from shift lever in the cabin.
- Unbolt shift lever with bearing bracket from central tube, pushing the foam insert aside.
Use a 10 mm. socket with extension to remove the two bolts.
Mark position of pivot flange on central tube, for reassembly.
- While pressing down on foam insulation turn shift rod over, and push selector
rod foward in cavity about 300 mm (12").
This will move shift rod out of
transmission protective tube.
Try not to damage insulation foam sheet!
Move black protective tube for shift rod back toward rear of car, although
this is not strictly necessary.
I tried to do this as described in the 944 Workshop Manual Vol.11
p.30-07 but was unsuccessful. The tube came out easily when I removed the
According to the Workshop Manual, if the retainers
(detents) on the tube become damaged during this rocess, the tube should be
- Put a wooden block between central tube and rear suspension cross member.
keeps stress off the torque when transmission is removed, keeping torque tube
- Run in hydraulic jack under transmission and support. The center of
gravity is more towards rear of transmission.
Have an assistant help with this procedure; it helps.
- Remove the four bolts attaching the transmission to the torque tube flange.
These bolts are not all the same length; make sure they are labeled.
I had trouble with the top driver's side allen bolt. I didn't have enough
clearance for a hex socket (10mm).
I took the hex bit out of the socket and used a wrench on the bit. Not
fun! Good luck!
- Remove transmission suspension mounting bolts at
top of transmission.
These are two long bolts with locknuts on the right side of the transmission.
Make sure jack is supporting transmission.
This will keep the suspension bolts from binding in the hanger and the transmission case.
- With an assistant stabizing transmission on jack cup, lower the transmission slowly
down while clearing spare tire well.
Readjust position on the jack cup if necessary.
Observe protective tube for damage and separation from housing.
If your transmission is equipped with an oil cooler loop,
treat it with care, it damages easily.
Once the transmission is clear, pull the jack towards rear,
while watching hanging axles for clearance.
- Remove transverse axle strut between body and axle - 4 bolts.
- Remove fuel filter's hose clamp, letting the fuel filter hang.
- Remove transmission carrier - 4 bolts. Check out Silent-Bloc Mount for damage and stress.
Usually they last quite a long time. Replace if damaged. An expensive
part - $150.00 approximately.
- Remove clutch slave cylinder and hang out of way - 2
- Mark the position of exhaust carriers on central
tube, and slacken but don't remove.
- Put a floor jack under oil pan with a piece of wood between
jack cup and the finned bottom of the oil pan.
This is to prevent engine from settling
too far at rear once the clutch bellhousing and central (drive) tube are removed.
- Unbolt the 4 bolts from central tube to clutch bellhousing.
- Slide the central tube rearward with selector rod after rotating it 90 degrees. Be
careful not to damage brake lines when rotating central tube. Wear
leather gloves when handling transaxle to avoid injuries. Note
the position of catch hooks at the rear of the tube.
Exhaust clamps should be free to slide as needed.
- Remove the temporary support block for central tube at rear of car.
- Loosen release lever shaft retaining bolt.
- Thread an M8 x 150 mm. bolt into the release lever shaft on clutch bellhousing.
With vice grips attached to end of bolt, tap the vice grips with a hammer to remove shaft.
Note that a shorter bolt can be used, but I needed the extra leverage to remove
shaft. (Refer to Haynes Manual Chapter 8, pg. 136.)
- Remove the four bellhousing bolts: two at the top, two at the
bottom The bolts at the top are a little difficult to
access. Use a long flex-head ratchet with a 17 mm. or 19 mm. 12-point socket.
- Remove the bellhousing with release lever.
- With an M8 "triple square" (12-point) driver, remove
the 9 cheesehead bolts retaining the pressure plate. Uniformly loosen bolts on
pressure plate. Use a good quality 12 point tool! Make sure the socket is seated
(engaged) properly in head, and that pressure is applied when
turning out bolt. This should prevent "camming" (stripping) out the head - the heads of these
cheeseheads are real easy to strip out!
- Remove pressure plate with release bearing and clutch disc.
Be careful: the pressure plate is somewhat heavy.
- Remove starter ring from pressure plate. I used a
hammer and a block of wood. Spray the ring with penetrating spray. Remove
evenly so as not to bend or distort the ring.
Note that the release bearing and
pressure plate are packaged separately, therefore you must assemble these as
one working part.
- Install release bearing on pressure plate.
Have an assistant push down on pressure plate while you install retaining ring.
Compare with the assembly of old unit.
- Install starter ring on new pressure plate. Align
bolt holes and tap on evenly. Note that this is a very precise fit. Make sure
ring goes on even and bolt holes are exactly aligned.
The pilot bearing is a bearing that supports the rear of the
crankshaft. As you can see it has taken a lot of work to get to this point,
therefore it is a good idea that this part be replaced.
- Removal requires the use of a special hooked puller tool,
but this method should work fine.
- Find a 8" bolt with a head that is slightly smaller then the bearing
opening. Attach Vice-Grips to other end.
- Hook head on other side of bearing,
and lightly tap on pliers with a hammer.
Note that a long bolt will give you
more leverage. I had a little trouble with this. Hint: tap out evenly -
refer to Haynes manual chapter 8, pg. 140.
- Remove bearing and clean out bore
in the crankshaft recess.
- Lightly oil sides of new pilot bearing and
install. Use a suitablly sized socket with extension and hammer. Make
sure bearing is tapped in evenly.
- Remove the bolts (M6) holding
guide sleeve on clutch bellhousing.
- Replace with new part if damaged or worn.
- Torque for the M6 bolts is 11 ft. lbs. / 15 Nm.
- Spray the needle bearing bore area with a penetrating spray to aid in removal.
- Punch out old needle bearings with proper size socket and extension. Note: These
were tough, I used a block of wood under the lever, with the extension going
through the opposite needle bearing shaft. I would have used a vice, but
did not have one at the time.
- Oil sides of bearings and install, and make
sure they seat in level. A very tight fit.
- Check flywheel for wear and scoring ("heat checking").
- If imperfections are slight, a machine shop can machine the surface to spec.
- Make sure all clutch surface areas are free of grease and oil. It is important
that friction surfaces are perfectly clean.
- Apply a thin coat of MoS2 ("moly disulfide")
grease (eg, wheel bearing grease) to guide sleeve, splines of central shaft, and grooved
- Lubricate release lever fork(needle sleeves,
ball socket, and fork. Note that the solid white lubricating paste p/n AOS.126.0006 is
no longer used, because it hardens with age. Use an MoS2 grease instead.
- Use the clutch alignment tool to center clutch plate to pressure plate.
Make sure tool is inserted all the way into pilot bearing.
- Apply a small amount of
anti-seize to threads of cheesehead bolts, and start by hand to assure that
the threads are aligned and won't be stripped. Tighten uniformly in a diagonally opposite
sequence to 18 ft-lbs. / 25 Nm. Make sure you have a good leverage and
that the tool is in level; these bolt heads are real shallow. Turn flywheel
to access bolts at bottom for best results - this takes some effort.
- Install the release lever and clutch housing together on the engine release bearing,
with cup on release lever facing slave cylinder opening. The two forks at end
will fit under release bearing edge. Hold the lever through the slave cylinder
opening while aligning. (You will understand this better when you do it.)
Make sure that the bonded bolt on the flywheel is facing down. This
will prevent damage to the reference transmitters.
- Tighten the four (4) clutch housing M12 bolts - two different lengths!
Torque them to 54 ft-lbs. / 75 Nm.
Start by hand tightening these bolts.
This is important especially when threading into an alloy material.
Starting these bolts with a socket will increase the
chance of cross threading. Use anti-seize on threads.
- Move the release lever
so that needle sleeves are aligned with bore in clutch housing.
- Slide in
release lever shaft so that milled face is toward securing bolt. Slide it in
all the way. It helps to lubricate the shaft. You may need to move the release
lever back and forth for proper alignment. Never force it! Install the securing
bolt with back up hex nut when the shaft is correctly positioned. Torque it to
7 ft-lbs. / 9.5 Nm.
- Install rubber seal on clutch inspection hole , if
missing. Hint: apply a small amount of sealant or glue to plug sides, and you
won't have to replace it again.
The sequence for assembly of central tube, transmission, exhaust system, etc.
is the reverse of removal, with some notes below.
- Slide by-pass valve bracket on central tube to marked postion and tighten.
- Position turbocharger by-pass valve (wastegate) between the
clutch housing and body.
- Uniformly tighten the M6 bolts connecting bypass
line / exhaust cross-pipe, torque to spec: 7 ft-lbs. / 10 Nm.
Always use new seal rings (packing rings) on
- When all axhaust system bolts have been inserted, tighten
the flange connection between the turbo charger and exhaust system first.
Pay attention to different size bolts! Torque spec's for the exhaust bolts are:
M8 bolts: 14 + 1.4 ft-lbs. / 20 + 2 Nm.
M10 bolts: 29 + 3.6 ft-lbs. / 40 + 5 Nm.
- Run car and check exhaust system for leaks.
- Once exhaust system has cooled down, retighten all bolts and nuts
to their specified torque (above).
Note that it is very important to retighten the flange connection between the
by-pass line and exhaust cross-pipe. Refer to Workshop Manual "Turbo
supplement" p. 30-7, # 6. Note also that when installing heat shields and guards, make
sure they are solid and free from vibration, for example, ther center catalytic
converter shield. If insulation sheet foam was damaged when shift rod
was moved, replace or repair if possible.
Assembly is reverse of disassembly, with some notes provided below.
- Install master cylinder guard with car still on jack stands.
This way it will be easier to access the bottom two nuts.
- Note that there is an electrical harness that runs along
the front edge of this guard. Make sure that the guard is not binding on
this cable bundle, this will make alignment almost impossible. I slid the
turbo pump bracket for more clearance. You can also loosen turbo pump on
bracket, but be careful not to stress the bottom waterpump hoses. This can
cause the waterpump motor shaft to bind resulting in a inoperative pump. This happened
to me. I was about to order a new unit, but all that I did was
loosen the clamp on the bracket and moved the pump down, and it worked.
This pump has been updated to a more robust design, and I imagine
this problem was resolved.
- Make sure that that the (4) intake manifold
gaskets are replaced if the manifold is removed. I would reccommend
using a gasket removing solvent to remove gaskets, e.g., the Wurth gasket remover.
I wish I had used this!
- When installing intercooler lines and tubes, connect all lines first,
then tighten clamps.
Make sure that the clamp below throttle housing does not obstruct the
movement of the throttle cam.
- Check out your air filter, replace if needed.
- Inspect all fuel injector seals and o-rings.
Replace if cracked or damaged.
Inspect the seal around the injector needles for hairline cracks.
- Make sure all spark plug wires are routed and laced properly, and inspect condition.
Reference mark and speed sensors: 6 ft-lbs. / 8 Nm.
Slave cylinder to clutch housing; 15 ft-lbs. / 21 Nm.
Central tube flange to clutch housing: 30 ft-lbs. / 42 Nm.
Starter to clutch housing: ?
Transmission carrier to body: 34 ft-lbs. / 46 Nm.
Bracket to transmission: 17 ft-lbs. / 23 Nm.
Guide sleeve (drive shaft to transmission input shaft): 58 ft-lbs. / 80 Nm.
Shift rod to transmission 15 ft-lbs. / 21 Nm.
Shift lever plate to central tube: 15 ft-lbs. / 21 Nm.
CV joint bolts (drive axles to transmission): 30 ft-lbs. / 41 Nm.
Speedometer socket to transmission: 30 ft-lbs. / 42 Nm.
Intake manifold to engine 14 ft-lbs. / 20 Nm
Oxygen sensor: 36 - 43 ft-lbs. / 50 - 60 Nm.
M6: 6 + 1.4 ft-lbs. / 8 + 2 Nm.
M8: 14 + 1.4 ft-lbs. / 20 + 2 Nm.
M10: 29 + 3.6 ft-lbs. / 40 + 5 Nm.
- Porsche 944 workshop manuals, volume 3
- Porsche 944 Turbo workshop manual
- Haynes Porsche 944 Manual #1027
- Porsche Microfiche 944 1985/2-1988
- George Beuselinck at 944 Ecology +1.845.658.9593
If you have any questions/corrections/suggestions please feel
free to contact me, Mike Kehr
home phone: +1 609 645 8167